On first coming to the island after the fresh green beauty of forests, valleys and moors back home, it is possible to feel disconsolate at the seemingly utter absence of greenery and trees. Homesick eyes see nothing but austere, grey rocks, and barren wastes. But after a time it is impossible not to appreciate the quaint beauty of little valleys with the fields terraced regularly one above the other; the low, flat-roofed houses which remind one of the East and of the Holy Land; the strange and characteristic contour of the hills of Gozo. This island may not be exactly as Homer, in the ninth century Before Christ, described it in the Odyssey, when the nymph Calypso lived amidst the fragrant orange-groves and the sparkling rivers, but it remains none the less a charming and beautiful land.

About one fourth of the Gozitans live in Rabat, the town of the island, signposted as Victoria, a name given to it in 1887 during the height of the British rule but hardly used by the inhabitants. The rest are scattered in fifteen villages and hamlets.

Truly enough Gozo is small; but a guarantee from a Gozitan: one needs not worry of getting bored. Whether one is interested in megalithic temples of the Ancient World or in the majestic churches of the Age of Baroque; whether one is looking for blue sea and sandy beaches, or for beautiful rugged countryside, one's expectations will be fulfilled. The Mediterranean blue which many are used to see in picture galleries and drawing rooms is no exaggeration. The incomparable glory and beauty of the sky and the sea do really exist!

Such beauty and secrets will be better discovered if one comes to stay for some time, but nonetheless it is worth visiting even if for a few hours. It is possible to travel to Gozo by sea or by air. The sea trip from Cirkewwa, the nearest point in Malta, to Mgarr harbour takes just about half an hour; while the distance from the Malta International Airport to the Gozo Heliport at Xewkija is covered by helicopter in fifteen minutes. Both the sea voyage and the air trip offer spectacular scenes of the island of Calypso.

The island's principal tourist attraction is the Citadel, the old fortified city of Gozo. The place, partly in ruins, is dominated by the Cathedral Church with an outstanding facade and magnificent interior by the Maltese renowned architect Lorenzo Gafà. Its foundation stone was laid three hundred years ago. From the stage-box of the huge walls of the fortifications, a superb view unfolds all round the horizon. Malta can be seen six kilometres away across the rim of bright water.
The heart of old Rabat is dominated by the golden Basilica of Saint George. A short glimpse through the old streets planned according to a medieval defensive plan should not be missed. Paved with cobbled stones and lit by old street lamps they convey an idea of bygone times.

Lunching out is no problem. Restaurants offering continental type and local menus abound in Rabat, Marsalforn, and Xlendi, but other places are not wanting of them. One particular local dish is rabbit stewed in wine and various dishes with freshly caught local fish. It is imperative to try the local peppered cheeselets. Gozo wine, the real extract that is, is also good and with more body than its Maltese counterpart.

For relaxation by the sea, there is a multiple choice: popular Marsalforn or picturesque Xlendi bay; or further away to the still virgin sandy Ramla  bay or down to magnificent Dwejra  on the western part of the island. A visit to the world famous temple of Ggantija  is a must. They are simply unique. Though not built by giants, as their Maltese nomenclature suggests, the huge rocks used in their construction certainly point to the strong and intelligent race that inhabited the islands over 5000 years ago.

During a few hours stay on the island, it is possible to be struck by the frequency of church-bells chiming and the crowds of earnest folk at church. No wonder for the island is dotted with some fifty churches and chapels that vie with each other to be the best. In August, Gozo dons its very best for the feast of Santa Marija, the nation’s religious national festivity. If you chance to be in Gozo at that time of the year, do join in the joyful excitement and spontaneous merrymaking for it might not be easy to experience the same anywhere else in the world!

So when you are at Malta, do as the Maltese do: take a trip to enchanting Gozo as a highlight of your stay.

© JOSEPH BEZZINA • 2000

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